
Friends, I opened the mailbox this morning and found a hand-written note from a dear old friend. I had to transcribe it and share it with you.
Dear Ali,
I hope this letter finds you well. I just wanted to write because with the holiday season rapidly approaching, I know you and I and many of your friends will be spending a lot of time together. I feel awkward reaching out like this, but I think it’s best I voice my concerns now. You see, while I love that you and so many others have discovered my versatility — really, I mean it, I loved those blondies — I’m feeling a little torn about all of the attention I’ve been receiving in recent years.
OK, I’ll just say it: the truth is is that I miss sage. And I miss crisping up its leaves in a pan filled with butternut squash ravioli. And I miss being tossed with ribbons of pappardelle and toasted pine nuts. And I miss bathing with fillets of sole.
There. I said it. I just wanted to remind you of, well, what I once considered my strength. I think you will understand. And I hate to impose, but if you wouldn’t mind sharing this with anyone you think might be interested, I would so appreciate it.
Your friend, Brown Butter
Friends, our pal BB seems so down. What can we do about this? I’m hoping this orecchiette with Brussels sprouts, walnuts and Pecorino might just boost his spirits. It’s one of my favorites right now, not only because the Brussels sprout leaves and little ears of pasta share the same shape, but also because it is irresistibly delicious and relatively easy to throw together. Peeling the sprouts is kind of a pain, but I can think of more tedious tasks (naming 20 trucks 20 times a day comes to mind) and the whole process takes no more than 10 minutes.
After the sprouts are separated into leaves, the rest is simple. While the pasta is cooking, the butter can be browned, the walnuts toasted and the cheese grated. During the last minute of the pasta’s cooking time, the Brussels sprouts enter the pot, and after the pasta and sprouts are drained, everything is tossed together: pasta, sprouts, brown butter, walnuts and cheese. So easy, so delicious. I think BB will approve.
PS: Brown Butter Blondies are delish. Also: Brown Butter Orzo Risotto .

Description
Pasta: I used to always make this with 8 ounces of pasta, which really let’s the brown butter notes shine, but 8 ounces of pasta simply is not enough for my family anymore. I get great results using 12 ounces of pasta and a bit more of the reserved pasta cooking liquid.
- 12 ounces Brussels sprouts
- 8 to 12 ounces orecchiette or whatever pasta you like, see notes above
- kosher salt
- 6 tablespoons ( 3 oz | 85 g ) unsalted butter
- 1 cup walnuts
- 2 ounces grated Pecorino or Parmigiano ( 1/2 to 1 cup)
- freshly cracked pepper and salt to taste
- Flaky sea salt to taste
- Cut the stems off of each sprout and start separating the leaves. It helps to cut above the stem a little bit higher than you would normally — you also might have to make another cut after you’ve started peeling away the leaves. When you reach the heart of the sprout, it will be really hard to peel back the leaves. Stop peeling and set the heart aside. Once all of the sprouts are peeled, thinly slice the hearts. Set sprout leaves and hearts aside.
- Put a large pot of water on to boil. Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt.
- Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan (large enough to fit the pasta and Brussels sprouts) melt the butter over medium heat. Once the butter begins turning brown and smelling nutty, turn off the heat.
- Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan over medium heat, toast the walnuts until they become lightly browned and fragrant, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, toast the walnuts at 350ºF for 8 to 10 minutes — watch closely to prevent burning.) Place the toasted walnuts in a tea towel and rub together to remove papery skin. Transfer walnuts to a sieve and shake again to remove any additional skin. This is a little fussy and optional. Set aside.
- Check the cooking time of the pasta you are using. Set the timer for one minute less than the time recommended for al dente. For example, if your orecchiette cooks in 9 minutes, set the timer for 8. After the 8 minutes, add the Brussels sprouts to the pot. Cook 1 minute more. Reserve at least 1 cup of the cooking liquid and set aside. Drain the pasta/sprouts.
- Bring the brown butter back up to temperature over medium or medium-high heat. Add the pasta/sprouts to the pan, 1/2 cup of the reserved cooking liquid, the walnuts, and a handful of the parmesan or Pecorino. Toss. Taste. Adjust with the flaky sea salt and pepper to taste. If necessary add some more of the pasta cooking liquid to the pan — it’s nice to have reserved pasta cooking liquid on hand if you make this ahead and need to reheat it.
- Prep Time: 15 minutes
- Cook Time: 10 minutes
- Category: Pasta
- Method: Stovetop
- Cuisine: American, Italian
Description
Pasta: I used to always make this with 8 ounces of pasta, which really let’s the brown butter notes shine, but 8 ounces of pasta simply is not enough for my family anymore. I get great results using 12 ounces of pasta and a bit more of the reserved pasta cooking liquid.
- 12 ounces Brussels sprouts
- 8 to 12 ounces orecchiette or whatever pasta you like, see notes above
- kosher salt
- 6 tablespoons ( 3 oz | 85 g ) unsalted butter
- 1 cup walnuts
- 2 ounces grated Pecorino or Parmigiano ( 1/2 to 1 cup)
- freshly cracked pepper and salt to taste
- Flaky sea salt to taste
- Cut the stems off of each sprout and start separating the leaves. It helps to cut above the stem a little bit higher than you would normally — you also might have to make another cut after you’ve started peeling away the leaves. When you reach the heart of the sprout, it will be really hard to peel back the leaves. Stop peeling and set the heart aside. Once all of the sprouts are peeled, thinly slice the hearts. Set sprout leaves and hearts aside.
- Put a large pot of water on to boil. Add 2 tablespoons kosher salt.
- Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan (large enough to fit the pasta and Brussels sprouts) melt the butter over medium heat. Once the butter begins turning brown and smelling nutty, turn off the heat.
- Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan over medium heat, toast the walnuts until they become lightly browned and fragrant, about 10 minutes. (Alternatively, toast the walnuts at 350ºF for 8 to 10 minutes — watch closely to prevent burning.) Place the toasted walnuts in a tea towel and rub together to remove papery skin. Transfer walnuts to a sieve and shake again to remove any additional skin. This is a little fussy and optional. Set aside.
- Check the cooking time of the pasta you are using. Set the timer for one minute less than the time recommended for al dente. For example, if your orecchiette cooks in 9 minutes, set the timer for 8. After the 8 minutes, add the Brussels sprouts to the pot. Cook 1 minute more. Reserve at least 1 cup of the cooking liquid and set aside. Drain the pasta/sprouts.
- Bring the brown butter back up to temperature over medium or medium-high heat. Add the pasta/sprouts to the pan, 1/2 cup of the reserved cooking liquid, the walnuts, and a handful of the parmesan or Pecorino. Toss. Taste. Adjust with the flaky sea salt and pepper to taste. If necessary add some more of the pasta cooking liquid to the pan — it’s nice to have reserved pasta cooking liquid on hand if you make this ahead and need to reheat it.
- Prep Time: 15 minutes
- Cook Time: 10 minutes
- Category: Pasta
- Method: Stovetop
- Cuisine: American, Italian
Find it online : https://alexandracooks.com/2013/10/07/orecchiette-with-brown-butter-brussels-sprouts-walnuts/

When my friend Anne announced she was getting married in my neck of the woods and asked if I might be interested in making some apple pies in place of a wedding cake, I immediately called my aunt Marcy to consult. I hadn’t made a pie in a long time — years! — and I not only needed a refresher on the basics — how many apples? what spices? tapioca or flour? how much sugar? — I also needed help with the logistics: would I realistically be able to make, bake and store enough pies to feed an entire (albeit small) wedding? Could I face this challenge with grace and dignity?
The conclusion we came to pretty quickly was no. Absolutely not. In my wise old age I have learned that sometimes it just makes sense to accept my limitations. Deep thoughts by Ali.
After explaining to Anne that for the wellbeing of everyone in my house I would have to decline, we came up with a saner solution: I would make two ceremonial pies for the pie-cutting ritual. Two pies I could handle. Nobody in my house would be harmed.
In the past few weeks, I’ve done a few test runs, seeking guidance from my aunt, the pie master in our family, the entire way. When it comes to making pies, Marcy cuts no corners, uses refrigerated bowls, a chilled marble rolling pin, and cold cold flour and butter. She follows the fraisage technique, using the heel — not the palm! — of her hand to cut the butter into the flour. She seasons the apples with both cinnamon and cloves, lemon juice and zest, and prefers tapioca to flour as a thickener. She never uses fewer than 10 apples per pie.
Over the years Marcy’s pies have developed such a reputation that other members of my family are afraid to weigh in on the subject of pie. During these past few weeks, I’ve called both my mother and sister to seek their advice on various pie-making matters, but from both of them each time I faced the same response: Ask Marcy.
I have done my best to relay my aunt’s pie-making wisdom here, with the exception, however, of the fraisage method, a technique I have not yet attempted, one that, once conquered, elevates the pie maker to the pie master: Marcy’s pie crusts boast an unparalleled level of flakiness. And so, I’m afraid, I leave you today with a quandary: To fraisage or not to fraisage? Perhaps something to ponder while apple picking this weekend? Happy Friday, Everyone.

A dear friend living in Chicago gave me this piebox this past summer. Isn’t it fun?

Wouldn’t this be more fun?

Update: October 12th, 2013, Anne & Matt’s Wedding:

The beautiful couple, Anne and Matt:
- 2 rounds pie dough
- 10 apples, whatever you like, I like Cortland and Honey Crisp
- 3/4 cup to 1 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- a grating of fresh cloves (optional)
- zest of one lemon (optional)
- juice of one lemon
- 2 tablespoons tapioca (the minute kind) or flour
- 2 tablespoons butter (cold or room temperature)
- 1 egg mixed with 1 tablespoon cream for the egg wash
- Preheat the oven to 425ºF with racks in the lowest part of the oven. If you have a pizza stone or Steel, place it in the oven. Peel the apples and cut into large chunks. Place in a large bowl and toss with the 3/4 cup of sugar, the cinnamon, the cloves (if using), the zest (if using), the juice of one lemon and the tapioca. Set aside.
- On a lightly floured work surface, place one pie dough round in the center. Roll it out into a circle two inches larger in diameter than your pie plate. Fold the circle in half and in half again. Place in your pie plate and unfold. Press down gently so that the dough fits into the corners. Place pie plate in the fridge while you roll out the second round. Roll the second round out in the same fashion, making it a touch larger in diameter than the first round if possible.
- Taste an apple. If it doesn’t taste sweet enough, add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and toss. Pour the apples into the center of your pie plate, using your hands to keep as many apples from tumbling out as possible. Cut the butter into small cubes and scatter them over the apples. Lay the second round of pie dough over top. Using scissors, trim the overhanging dough and set aside. (Wrap these scraps into a ball to make cinnamon snails or an apple galette.)
- To crimp the edges together, lay two fingers a finger’s-width apart from your right hand below the edge of the dough. Gently press down with your left finger in between the two fingers. Move two fingers’ width to the right and repeat — your left-most finger on your right hand will reinforce the impression made by the right-most finger from the first crimp. Or just crimp the edges together however you wish. It all tastes the same in the end.
- Brush the entire surface of the dough with the egg wash. Make slits using a sharp paring knife all over the surface. Place the pie on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
- Bake for 20 minutes at 425ºF. Reduce the temperature to 350ºF and continue baking until golden all over, anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour longer depending on your oven. I have been baking them closer to 30 minutes at 350ºF, but aunt Marcy, the expert, bakes them longer, so use your judgment.
- Prep Time: 25 minutes
- Cook Time: 50 minutes
- Category: Dessert
- Method: bake
- Cuisine: American